Hello, please join me (Colin) and my wife (Anne) from Glasgow, Scotland, as we take you with us on our 3-week tour of Alberta and British Columbia. We will tell you about some of the beautiful scenery and things we did or places we visited on our journey and you will be with us as we describe to you the bed and breakfast homes we stayed at along the way. We will describe our room within each home, and you will almost certainly picture the plentiful breakfasts the host families brought to the dining room tables. Calgary - 1 nightAs our flight arrived in the evening we drove straight to a warm welcome at our accommodation on the southern outskirts of the town. I found it difficult to believe that Calgary and its surroundings is all at a height only 300m below the height of the highest mountain in the UK. After a welcome cup of tea served with home baking we retired to our large and lovely bedroom in the lower level of the house. There was a large shower room and washroom adjoining the bedroom for our exclusive use but with an entrance from another bedroom that would make ideal accommodation for a family to share. Breakfast consisted of fruit juice, a cooked breakfast (Newfoundland pancakes), tea/coffee, and fresh muffins all tastefully served in the large dining room. We felt very comfortable in this home. Josephine and her husband were perfect hosts and made us feel most welcome. Highly recommended. We reluctantly left mid-morning to travel the 128 km (80 miles) to Banff passing the 1988 Olympic ski jump on the west of the town. Travelling through rolling but fairly dry countryside we soon got our first glimpse of the Rockies in the distance and soon after arrived in Canmore where we enjoyed a lovely lunch at a restaurant overlooking the mountains. A further 30 km took us into Banff and as it was only early afternoon (and a beautiful day) we drove the short distance to the Banff Gondola on Sulphur Mountain. The views from the summit (2,281m) were outstanding with snow on the peaks of the Rockies. We went on to have a look at the renowned Banff Springs Hotel and explore the lovely golf course on the edge of the Bow River before checking-in to our B&B in the town. Banff - 2 nightsThe house was an attractive chalet-style design in the centre of the town with the mountains as a backdrop. The room was spacious and clean and within a short distance to a restaurant and interesting shops. After stopping off for a morning coffee we were on our way on to the magical Lake Louise some 54km on the road to Jasper. We could have seen Lake Louise when driving the 290km (180 miles) to Jasper the next day but we had heard so much about the lake that we wanted to spend some time there. It meant that the following day we then had ample opportunity to enjoy the Banff and Jasper National Parks, the wildlife, views of glaciers, lakes waterfalls and of course the Columbia Icefield. I must mention the Athabasca Glacier that at one time came right down to where the road is and even now is close enough to be able to take an unforgettable sno-coach ride on to it. Jasper - 2 nightsWe knew accommodation was at a premium here and we had chosen motel-type accommodation rather than travel further to either of the places that had been suggested. Accommodation was adequate, clean, and we had no complaints. We did quite a bit of exploring around Jasper, both locally and further afield, going to Maligne Canyon, Medicine Lake where the outlet is underground and also Jasper N P’s longest and deepest lake, Maligne Lake where it snowed. It was also interesting while having a meal in one of the many restaurants on Connaught Drive in Jasper, to watch the enormous trains passing through the town but frustrating when driving having to wait, on one occasion, for 126 wagons to pass by. After breakfast we set off on the 305km (190 miles) to Clearwater remembering to put our watches back as we passed through the Yellowhead Pass into Mount Robson Park in British Columbia. We found the stop at the visitor centre below Mt. Robson (the highest point in the Canadian Rockies) well worthwhile. Further down the road we came across an area that had in the past been devastated by fire and there was an interesting description of how the area had been cleared and replanted. Clearwater - 1 nightA lovely home in a rural setting with a very warm welcome from the hosts Chris and Jim with wild humming birds coming to the feeder within 1m of where we stood chatting, while the family dog lay beside us.
The next day, with only a short drive to our next stop at Williams Lake we went into Wells Gray Park before leaving the area to see the incredible Helmcken Falls, BC’s 4th highest falls. The Murtle River cascades off the edge of the plateau in a sparkling 137m high torrent and the ensuing spray forms a 60m high ice cone in winter. After lunch at the golf club on the edge of the park we set off on the 220km (136 miles) to our next overnight stop via Bridge Lake and 100 Mile House. At 108 Mile house the reconstructed dwellings and trapper’s hut proved interesting. Williams Lake - 1 nightThis was a very nice home right on the lakeside opposite Scout Island with a beaver’s lodge at the bottom of the garden. The hosts Marilyn and husband were charming and most welcoming. It was very comfortable accommodation with a large en-suite bedroom with views over the lake. Marilyn gave us a very nice breakfast and in fact we had to ask for half the quantity that we could have been given. Fresh fruit, juice, cooked breakfast, coffee/tea. Recommended. It was only 220km (138 miles) to our stopover at Prince George but we wanted to visit the old goldfield towns of Wells and Barkerville. This added on a further 164km (100 miles) to our journey making it the longest drive of our holiday. Despite being amongst trees for the majority of the drive and it being very wet that day the detour to the goldfield towns where the ‘staff’ in the old houses and shops were dressed in period costumes, was worth the effort. We could have spent hours at Barkerville and also more time in the museum at Wells. Prince George - 1 nightA charming house, in a rural setting to the south of the town, designed and built by Jacqueline’s husband in Swiss alpine style. We had a bedroom at the top of the house (3rd floor) which was rather narrow, but was acceptable as it was so different from conventional homes. The toilet was between the two rooms on the upper floor and the shower room was on one of the lower floors. Jacqueline and Klaus were very welcoming hosts and we had a very nice breakfast with juice, fresh fruit and a cooked breakfast, coffee and tea whilst chatting to them. Recommended. By lunchtime we had got to Vanderhoof and we stopped off at the OK Café, sited inside a heritage-style building, and sampled perogies with semenite sausages and blueberry sauce. It was an interesting combination of flavours completely new to us.
The run forward to Smithers was through pleasant countryside and being golfers we were intrigued to see Carnoustie Golf Club, near Burns Lake. We couldn’t resist the temptation to stop to see how it compared with the ‘real’ Carnoustie G C in Scotland. As everyone we had met since arriving in Canada had been so friendly and interesting to talk to, it was no surprise to be offered complimentary coffees and have a friendly chat with the daughter of the man who had created this 9-hole course. We didn’t have time to play the course but we left with souvenirs to take home. Smithers - 1 nightWe stayed in a modern house in the lovely small town of Smithers. We had the choice of two bedrooms, one downstairs or one on the ground level that had its own door to the outside. Although we chose the one on the ground level that was the smaller of the two and had a very small toilet/shower room, it was our choice. The room was tastefully furnished and there was a kettle with coffee and biscuits in the room if we wanted a late night refreshment. In the morning we had a lovely breakfast with a type of porridge, fresh fruit, juice, cooked breakfast if we wanted it, toast, home made jam, marmalade, etc. Our hosts Bev and David were a charming couple and we had wished to have been at Smithers in July - August when they organise walking trips to the alpine meadows to see the alpine flowers. Recommended.
The journey from Kitwanga to Prince Rupert was beautiful, through the mountains and alongside the Skeena River, and reminded us very much of parts of Scotland. Prince Rupert The ferry trip south though the Inside Passage started off in sunshine but unfortunately after about 5 hours the weather closed in and became, as we say in Scotland, very dreich. The clouds covered the mountain tops and it became very cold and wet. While we were on the ferry representatives from the National Parks gave several interesting talks on the flora and fauna to be found in the areas we were to pass through. Unfortunately the weather seemed to inhibit the wildlife and we saw very little of that on the sail. One plus point was the superb and very reasonably priced carvery-type dinner we had on the ferry. The ferry berthed at Port Hardy at 11 PM and we drove straight to our pre-booked accommodation for the night. Port Hardy - 1 nightOur hotel had been booked, for convenience, in the UK knowing that our arrival would be late at night. It turned out to be adequate but I now know that Canada-West could have booked superior accommodation for us. With 375km (235 miles) to Nanaimo we only had a brief look at Port Hardy before leaving but soon got side-tracked to the interesting Telegraph Cove passing on the way logging operations involving the collection and sorting of tree trunks floating in the bay. Telegraph Cove was a nice place with again humming birds flitting back and forth to the bird feeders. The first part of the run in the car from Port Hardy had been between trees and rather uninteresting but it soon opened out and we enjoyed the scenery through Campbell River, Courtenay, Parksville, etc to Nanaimo. We had thought of diverting from Parksville to Tofino to go on a whale watching trip but had decided earlier that it would be too long a drive for one day especially if the weather was poor at Tofino. Again, something for another time. Nanaimo - 1 nightWe couldn’t find our hostess, Darlene, at first and thinking she may be in the back garden and unable to hear the doorbell, we went to find her and were impressed by the display of flowers and shrubs before us. After meeting up, Darlene showed us to lovely bedroom downstairs with an enormous bed. The shower room was adjoining. Again we had a most enjoyable breakfast whilst chatting about the Island and the lovely garden. A very warm welcome in a beautiful home. Highly recommended. With only a short distance to Victoria 140km (90 miles), but more traffic than we had been used to so far, we can recommend stopping at the former sawmill town of Chemainus. There you can take a horse-drawn ride or follow the yellow footprints on the pavement edges round the town to look at the 30 or so larger-than-life murals painted on the walls of the buildings. They depict the history and culture of the town as it was. Another site not to be missed is the Butchart Gardens located on Brentwood Bay off the Saanich Inlet, north west of Victoria. We went there on our way from Nanaimo to Victoria and as it was 4:0 PM we missed all the bus parties which made our stroll around the magnificent gardens all the more pleasant. Victoria - 2 nightsMargaret and Peter were a very charming couple, who were so eager to please us. A homely room with the bathroom/shower room adjoining, in an older house having an interesting display of treasures collected before they came to live in Victoria. We enjoyed a good breakfast with fruit, fruit juice, and a cooked breakfast, toast, tea, coffee, etc. Peter was so interesting when chatting to him as he had been in the RAF during the Second World War and had subsequently spent time in Africa and England. Recommended for guests looking for good old-fashioned hospitality in a home of the 1923 era. Our final memory of Victoria was the sight of snow capped Mount Olympus sparkling in the sunshine behind Port Angeles in Washington, USA across the Juan De Fuca Strait. The ferry trip from Swartz Bay to Tsawwassen on the mainland was very pleasant as the ship wound between the islands off the east coast of Vancouver Island and it gave me time to contemplate on the expected increase in road traffic in Vancouver. However by this time I had got used to an automatic car and driving on the ‘wrong’ side of the road and did not find it a problem. Vancouver - 4 nightsGraham and Lee were perfect hosts. Their home on 14th Avenue, across the Burrard St. bridge from Downtown Vancouver, was within easy driving distance or 45 minutes walking distance of the centre of Vancouver, and was adapted for their B&B guests. It was very nicely furnished with antique furniture but with all the modern additions guests have come to expect. Our room was spacious with an en-suite shower/bathroom. Fresh fruit and biscuits were available in the room. Breakfast, which was served in the lovely dining room, consisted of fresh fruit, juice, one of Graham’s speciality dishes, fresh muffins and toast, tea or coffee. If guests are in the house between 3:30 - 4:30 afternoon tea is served and if you miss that there is a Happy Hour between 5:30 - 6:30 when wine and nibbles are available to those who wish to indulge. A most enjoyable B&B that is very highly recommended. Throughout our holiday eating out at very reasonable prices every evening at one of the many delightful restaurants was a pleasurable past time. However, we did find the cost of even a bottle of mediocre wine very expensive compared to that we were used to in the UK. The Rocky Mountaineer - 2 days
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